Gotta love the Bus

Another Florida fish story

Gotta love the Bus

We took the bus the other day to Key West for the day.  As before it was an entertaining $3.00(for both of us) We walked out to US1 and stood under a big tree for 20 minutes. There was  a couple from the marina. She was from California. He owned the boat and was from Texas.  He wore a plastic stetson tied under his chin with a leather lace.  Seemed  nice.  I was too hot so I went further under the tree and Chris heard their story.  He, Billy-Bob, had rescued her from a second mean captain.  She, Peggy-Sue, had advertised herself as crew on some crew network and hooked up with one fellow, then another  fellow who allegedly wanted crew -- it turned into a concubine job.  Oh my, what a surprise! Now both of these people are mid 50,s, not 20.  And I think he was mean to her, likely because she didn't want to be his concubine.

CR asked him where they were headed on the boat, Billy-Bob responded that his destitute brother was also living with him on the boat.  His brother didn't have a passport and didn't have any money for a passport so they were hoping his brother's) kids would give him some money for Christmas so he could get a passport and they could then go to the Bahamas.  The three of them are living on a boat the smaller than, and the vintage of, Big Fun. 

Then the bus came.  Of course it was noisy. There were only a few people on.  We sat forward.  Billy-Bob and Peggy-Sue sat back.  One young woman got on and sat in front of us.  Then a couple of love struck 20 year olds. They sat and snuggled and smootched and touched and petted all the way to Key   West.  In front of us as well so we had full on soft porn for 1.5 hours.  Then a really old man got on with two canes. He was smiley and happy.  He sat down in front of us.  Then another girl gets on and sits in front of us but on the other aisle. And all the time there are two people in the back making lots of noise.  The two girls know each other and of course start talking. Girl number 2 knows the old man.  His name is Otis. Then a man gets on with a folded up bicycle and chats up the driver. The girls chat.  Then they start to talk about some friend who just had to go and have surgery on an abscess on her coccyx, for the second time. One of the girls commented how she  (she must have been a nurse) had been packing the first one and blah blah blah.  I thought CR was going to barf.  And the noise is getting louder, the young ones are groping and we are talking louder just to be heard.

Eventually girl number one gets off.  Then poor old Otis gets off at the Key West hospital and hobbles down a long driveway to the hospital.  Then we get into KW and we have to get off the bus and wait while he gets gas.  So while we are waiting the guy with the bicycle tells us that it is the bus driver's birthday.  He works full time for the city of Marathon in the works dept and drives on the weekend.  The noisy couple get off.  Turns out they are mother and son.  It is her birthday. She is 85 (I couldn't believe it, more on that later) They've come to KW to get loaded.  I think they were already. They launch into a story about taking the bus because the DUI penalties are nasty.  6 months in county plus a big fine. Turns out both sonny boy and the step dad had both done DUI time. Step Dad shouldn't have been driving at the time because he’d had a stroke!

So turns out the DUI old man was from Michigan.  He paid a Fl fine, did Fl time then got a 2k fine from Michigan. He decided not to pay it so the govt took it out of his income tax refund!!  Heard all of this in 5 minutes. She really was 85.  I hope I look that good a 70. So we all get back on the bus and wish the bus driver happy birthday.  He dropped us off and gave us explicit instructions on how to get back on the bus and back to Marathon.

We spent a nice day in Key West. When we went back for the bus at 8pm there were mother and son. Son was so loaded he could hardly stand. She was sober I think.  We get on then Billy-Bob and Peggy-Sue get on then the 2 young lovers, then 4 more people who had come down with us.  We all rode back together.  CR was very anxious that we get off at the right stop.  The lovers were worn out.  Fortunately the drunk fell asleep.  Got to go. Ciao

Eating our way through Florida

We have been in Florida for about three weeks now.  The weather has been great. Sailing fine.  The memorable thing has been the food.  We have had some great meals throughout the state.

Mayfair Hotel Restaurant - Coconut Grove

Let start in Cocoa Beach Village.  My friend, Diana, introduced us to Ossorios a cute little bistro in the village.  Lovely fresh salads, croissants and wraps.  CR and I also went there in the morning with the locals for a great cup of coffee.  We sat at the sidewalk tables under trees.

We had a beach dinner in Daytona that was the usual beach food.  The scenery was great. We had a nice dinner at the Daytona Marina.  Very beautiful restaurant with fish murals, lovely wall coverings, nice outdoor patio with fireplace.  The best Key Lime Pie so far.

Twice we went to another local hangout in Cocoa Village,  Murdock’s,  an interesting spot, a bar, next door to Florida’s equivalent of the Running Room. After their run the club members came in for a beer!!  There was live music 5 nights a week.  We heard a good blue grass band.The pot roast was the Cpt’s fave.  The building was built with used window frames and trim from a local grand hotel that had been demolished. Big wide window sills and an embossed tin ceiling.

Solar Powered Parking meters in Coconut Grove

Enjoyed a great Italian dinner with our friends at  mmmmmmm!  Great lasagna, veal Parmesan. Nice spot.

Next stop on the foodies tour was Ft. Lauderdale. Known for big fancy houses and big fancy boats. We went to two dinghy restos.  Raw Bar at the bottom of 15^th street canal. Not a white table cloth joint but great fresh seafood.  Entertainment of the day was a jetter.

Ft Lauderdale - yacht central

Better than the Raw Bar was the 15^th Street Fisheries at the Lauderdale Marina on the ICW.  We went there twice.  The Skillet was to die for.  Lots of fish in a cream sherry sauce. Fantastic soft shell crab sandwich.  The sangria was the best I have ever had.  It was a little on the strong side.  I went back to the boat and fell asleep for the afternoon.

On to Coconut Grove,Miami.  We started out at the Mayfair Hotel for a salad and pizza lunch.  The setting was great.  We have been trying to replicate a pizza we had in the south of France two years ago and so far haven’t found it.  Hard to find fresh anchovies here in NA.  For dinner that night we went to the newest in cuisine trends, pan American,  really meaning south American.  We went to Jaguar.  Great ambiance.  I had sirloin skewers with a green sauce and green pasta.  Chris had Mahi with lots of heat and a fabulous, to die for, best ever, mango/onion salsa.  We also had ceviche appetizer, which was the special.  This tasty dish we first had in Charleston with Deb and john.  It is seafood cooked in lime juice.  The lime juice changes the texture of the flesh.  Grand!!! We wanted to have a key lime tequila creme caramel brulee but were too full.

Just here for the seafood man - try the clams or crabs!

On to the local hangout Flannigans for the best ribs in south Florida, recommended by the City Marina staff.  Nice little local joint..  Then we went back to Jaguar for Crème Brulee and the coffee.

Of course in between all of these great eats we are eating celery and drinking water and walking as much as possible(baloney!).

On to the Keys, the land of fresh seafood and conch chowder.  Close to our marina home is the Keys Fisheries.  This is a local on the water joint.  You seip up to the counter to give your order and your order is denoted by a song or cartoon character.  I had wonderful seared Bay Scallops on Caesar salad for one lunch, the lobster wrap for another.  The Capt loves the blackened grouper sandwich. They also have individual servings of Ben and Jerry;s  So far I have resisted.

Next door to our marina home is a famous local spot, Castaways.  They are known to have great Sushi.  To date we haven’t gone but we are going to be here for another week.

Sunday we went to Key West, another interesting local transit adventure.  This is a small town so everyone knows each other, lots of chatter. The best looking 85 year old woman I have ever seen.  There is hope girls!!  She didn’t look a day over 70, I kid you not.

Blue Heaven in Key West - A favorite!

Ah,  Key West where do I begin?  The land of bad tee shirts, cruise boats, great restaurants, beautiful trees and lovely little streets of Victorian cottages.  We did up the town.  Started out at the Grand on Duval. It is hard to get good Hollandaise. Best Hollandaise ever on  my eggs benedict & the captains.  I had the classic, the Cpt had smoked salmon.   Then we walked and walked eventually went to the Schooner Wharf Bar for a drink.  Then walked some more, had an early dinner at Blue Heaven.  Expensive but worth it.  I had the yellow tail in a wonder full sauce  CR had mahi mahi.    Finally we ended the night with a quick drink at Margaritaville.  Then another ride back on the local Keys bus; oddly enough with the same group of locals we rode down with.  Everyone was a lot quieter this time.

So, the moral of the story is,  if one of us doesn’t start cooking soon we are going to go broke,  but what a delicious way to go! Today we bought two cook books.

Ft lauderdale, Miami, Marathon - Just Chillin

Named for Brenda's sister

OK, so we left you at almost Ft Lauderdale.  We got there next day and anchored there for a week in Lake Sylvia which is a pretty little lake in the middle of the City.  Here we launched our dingy motor so we could travel the canals into the city…up the New River goes right downtown old Fort Lauderdale…we had tried to book a slip at the City Marina but because of the 40^th annual parade of boats on the Saturday they didn’t want any boats tied up in the narrow river…we dingied out on a fullish moonlit night to take in the parade, it was entertaining…many boats anchored to watch; local police telling people to stop travelling while the parade is on; dingies darting in and out between the boats, evading the police; anchored boats partying with loud music, rap vs Country etc….the Parade boats were great, many with corporate sponsorship but also enthusiastic individuals with 20 -30,000 lights- truly a unique Christmas parade.

We went to the grand opening of West Marine’s largest US store and got an offer we couldn’t refuse on a chartplotter (a Raymarine E120) upgrade. I couldn’t get a timely appointment to have it installed in Lauderdale so arranged something for the following week at Marathon, our Xmas destination.

We went outside into the Atlantic and had a great motorsail to achieve Miami and anchored in the marine amphitheater bay just north of the bridge. A  great anchorage with a view of the Miami skyline  but it smelled industrial…so next day we moved over to Dinner Key, City Marina and spent a few days meandering and eating out in Cocanut Grove…the marina dock costs were the highest at $2.75 per foot but the convenience  and ambience of the Villiage of Coconut Grove (suburb of Miami) were worth it. Great shops and restaurants (see Brenda’s blog on this). You could also stay on a mooring ball for about $270/month but the mooring field seemd rather exposed to weather; a sialing club next door is also a wery economic possibility, with better wind  protection.

Famous Stilltsville houses - leaving Bicayne Bay

We went outside again for a couple of days of a  sleighride (wind behind, following seas)  and anchored overnight at Rodriquez Key before getting to get to Marathon, Boot Key Harbour, where we are now. This is half way down the Florida Keys

Sailing the Hawks Channel South of Biscayne Bay - water is beautiful here

We booked a week on a mooring ball for $105( it is $275 for a month) – this includes access to free wifi, a weekly heads pumpout, dingy docks…actually if you anchored in the harbour you could have everything  except the ball for $45/week…a very cheap way to spend the winter.  Many cruisers go no further than this paradise. 

Famous GAM Magazine author is a neighbour

Neighbours in Marathon - unusual name for a boat!

There is a real international cruisers community here (about 220 moorings plus anchored boats) - daily cruisers Net on VHF channel 68 welcomes new arrivals, wishes well boats leavingprovides daily announcements, buy/sell/giveaway segment and trivia section starting a 9am every morning…potlucks, polker games, free yoga and spanish lessons are announced at the tiki hut,  xmas celebrations, etc.  Dingies are active all day long to and fro.

We have arranged installation of the new chartplotter, a battery (Xantrex LinkLite) monitor and some additional sunshade canvas while we are here.  Daughter Meaghan is joining us for xmas on her way back from Peru and sister Leslie and (brother-in-law) Tim for New Years…we plan to sail down to Key West to take in the “other world’ New Years eve party before heading to the Bahamas after New Years….Life is goood!

Brendas Wild Ride, Preparing to Fish...I give up call the Plumber

November 25,   We entered Florida at Fernandina Beach.  A very industrial part of the state, not what they show you on the travel brochures.  There were old rusty scows on the east side of the ICW, sketchy mooring fields with sunken sailboats, only their masts still showing and smoke stacks from some sort of manufacturing endeavour.  Needless to say we hustled on south.   The next day was better.

Cool Bed & Breakfast

Ideas for Chris's Totem at Brenda's Cay?

Bridge art

Fun Riverside Cottage

 We seemed to be in less developed area and there were schools of dolphins.  They were having a grand time jumping around, eating something no doubt.  Chris tried to get some photos.

Several great things include the water colour just keeps getting better, the air is warmer, birds of all kinds are plentiful and we have been hearing the krill under our ships hull many nights since Charleston (sounds like an electrical fire).

We spent one night anchored at Matanzas Inlet.  It was one road back from the ocean.  There were more dolphins, lots of nice birds, a couple of jet skis, a beautiful beach and the remains of an old fort.  Oh yes, and lots of motorcycles on the road.  It was a great day for a ride.  Before we left in the morning we agreed that we were far enough south that we could sit and enjoy a cup of coffee before we took on the day.  Until now we have been hustling everyday.. to get south. It was grand, the dolphins were around us, we could hear the surf and  the sun was shining.

November 27- November 28 Daytona Beach Brenda's wild ride
Famous Datytona Beach...we checked into the Halifax River Municipal Marina and prepare to stay a couple of days to provision and see the sights. Marina folks said everything is close...not so ...we walked 2 miles in search of a seafood restaurant, ended up at the beach and had a traditional beach bar burger...the drinks were watered down...all juice I think! We took a cab back to the marina, got the cabbie to give us a quick tour and had great key lime pie and decaf coffee back at the marina Blue Grotto restaurant. I felt Daytona has had its glory days and facing hard times now...we should have stopped at St Augustine, which has a great waterfront. Bad weather forecast dictated another day stay.

We had an interesting day travelling on the Daytona Beach city bus system. Most of the travellers were people of colour, we whities were in the minority and the few other white folk on the bus seemed challenged one way or another. We took the bus to the grocery store. A tense moment when Chris asked a rather large tatooed man if he was still going out with Linda...who's Linda? he challenged and Chris pointed to the tatoo..oh...that's my mother he declared, so I guess you are still together Chris said...he smiled and we didn't get punched out...my man is so brave! Then I went on the bus solo to the shopping centre that was recommended by the marina. The shopping centre was half way across Florida! We went by the college, the university, the hospital, multiple doctors offices(for a country without universal healthcare there are an awful lot of doctors), the airport and the speedway before we finally got to the mall entrance. I spent an enjoyable day alone, of course there were not many people shopping because they were recovering from shopping all weekend. Then I had to ride back on the bus. I didn't get on the bus the marina recommended. I got on the bus driven by the same driver who was driving us in the morning. He remembered me (how could he not) asked me where I was going and he said hop on lady I will get you there. This was the bus route that the tourist bureau doesn't want you on. PS I forgot, Americans seem talk to anyone and everyone on the bus, and in very loud voices. Canadians never talk to anyone on the bus, and if they do, like they are telling you a secret (in a low voice).
So there were already a few people on the bus. A young mom with a huge cart full of preemie baby formula, and another soon to be young mom, plus a bunch of noisy people in the back. Well I think almost the first stop was at the Veterans Hospital. Several seriously weathered Viet Nam vets get on followed by a man in a wheelchair. The first guy, likely a little older than me, who probably hadn't cut his hair since he got back from Nam, launches into his story of being a medic in Nam and trying to help deliver babies there but they didn't want his help. This was probably because he was covered with blood and those people have been having babies in the field for 4,000 years. Then a little later he talks to this rather large lady who got on the bus and he wanted to give up his seat. They bantered back and forth and then he said how he hasn't any pain because they give him so much drugs at the vet hospital. Then his wife phoned him and they nattered, then he hung up and she phoned him back and he answered "Reverend Jim here".
Person # 2, young clean guy likely mid twenties, obviously bi polar talking a mile a minute launches onto the young gal who is ready to have her baby any minute about how he would be scared to have a baby, isn't she scared to have a baby blah blah blah. Fortunately he moved down the bus but continued on yakking. And all the time there is this creepy guy sitting at an a angle to me. Obviously nuts as well. So we are going along on the bus and the neighbourhoods just get seedier and seedier.
Then this young white guy gets on dressed like a rapper, very clean clothes, new, but way too big for him. He had those big shorts on that hang off their behind and the only way he could keep them on was to hang on to his crotch!! I kid you not!!. And the neighbourhoods just get seedier and seedier.
Then a bunch of people get on with bags of clothes from Sally Ann. I felt very conspicuous with my bags of new stuff from Macy's. Then this overdressed  girl gets on with the big boobs and the big hair, low cut black dress. In her purse she has one of those long skinny hard salami sticks, she is flinging around a loaf of white bread and complaining because she has to go to the back of the bus for a seat. Meantime there are folks in the back scrapping about something. And the neighbourhoods just get seedier and seedier, eventually we come to a trailer park, old white trailers. Then we come to another trailer park with really old trailers but they are painted up in bright colours so they don't look half bad. Then finally we got to the transfer station and they all got off.
I stayed on and a few more nuts got on. One guy chatted me up when he found out I was CDN he immediately said oh you have socialized medicine, I was stunned because I didn't think he could read!! Then he went on to say what a great PM Brian Mulroney was! I was by then thinking I must be in the twilight zone.
We got to my stop and I said thanks very much. I meant it...this bus ride was a real slice of life!

November 29 - December 5

Following Daytona we moved on to CocoaBeach where we caught up our friends Diana and Ross on One White Tree.  I spent a great day in Orlando with Diana and another friend.  Diana is to be mother of the bride in October of 2012 so she played dress up and we got to ooh and ahh at all the pretty dresses.  Chris messed around on the boat doing boat stuff, after being unable to get a hose on or off he was changing - tight quarters, many bruises later, Chris called the plumber - some things are better left to others.  Cocoa Beach Village is lovely.  The merchants and the town have refurbished the original town as a great walking, shopping and eating centre.  Again we used the bus system and went out to Ron Jon's famous surf shop.  We wandered on the beach and had lunch at a beach tiki bar.   Chris bought salt water fishing gear to catch mahi mahi or any other fish dumb enought to bite his line when we are cruising the Bahamas.

ICW View from our dock at Cocoa

December 06
Our next port of call was Fort Pierce where we anchored in front of the city marina and took advantage of the free wifi. Along with the free wifi we got a free light and music show.  The town has decorated the trunks of tall palm trees with 4 colours of Christmas lights.  The lights blink in sync with the Christmas carols that are blasted out from some where.  The concert is 30 minutes long starting at 6pm.  The first time was very nice.  However the concert is on a loop!  By 930 we were on the 8th loop.  I battened down the hatches, hunted up some ear plugs and hit the hay.
Did I say the sun always shines in Florida?  Did I say the air is spectacularly clear in Florida? Have I commented how big and beautiful the skies are down here?  Did I say there is a house for every budget in Florida? Did I say there is a boat for every budget in Florida?  Well there is.  Say what you want about this palm filled state but there is definitely something for everyone, every taste and every budget.

December 7&8th

Today we ran the bridge gaunlet.  We stayed last night at  Lake Worth (at Palm Beach), one of the jumping off points for the Bahamas.  Chris decided he wanted to go inside to Ft. Lauderdale.  Okay I said, not realizing he thought there was only 4 bridges, when in reality there are 19!!!!   These are timed bridges that have to raise up for almost every height of boat.  We managed to do 17 by 3pm.  We called it quits and will do the rest tomorrow.  Fortunately there were very few boats on the ICW today so it wasn't to scary. The houses and boats in this part of Florida are grand, magnificent, ostentatious, etc.  Tomorrow we are heading to the global mecca for boaters...Fort Lauderdale...53,000 registered boats in this city...every conceivable yacht service...many power/sail to's as the City is built on numerous canal systems.
We are currently anchored in a scoop off the ICW called Lettuce Lake.  Its not a lake. Its a scoop off the ICW but there is free wifi  !!! The houses around us are decorated for Christmas, we can hear the surf, we are on the second full moon of our trip.  Life is good!